Genn Shaughnessy @ The Backstage Stylist

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How to Choose the right foundation Shade

DETERMINE YOUR UNDERTONE FIRST

First you need to determine what your undertone is to match a proper foundation shade. Your color may vary due to the time of year if your exposure to sun varies, but undertone will always remain the same. Warm, Cool or Neutral….

  • Warm has tones of yellow and gold 

  • Cool has tones of blue, red and pink

  • Neutral is kind of a mix of the two 

The best way to figure out what this color is, is to have an absence of color surrounding you. Wear a white shirt, and stand near a white or really light background in bright lifting. Hold a white piece of paper next to your face, what do you see? That tone is your undertone. 

  • Fair skin women usually have a neutral or cool undertone

  • Medium skin undertones are typically golden in color, meaning a warm undertone.

  • Dark skin can vary in undertones.

Another good trick is looking at the veins in your wrist. If they look blueish, you have a pink undertone, if they look greenish you have a warm undertone.

Once you establish this, you’ll know if you’re looking for a cool or warm undertone.

DETERMINING YOUR SHADE

Every brand has a range of colors sometimes listed as Light-Dark, others listed as a number or name range. Thankfully now most brands have color charts with photos of faces that you’ll be able to relate to. Once you establish that undertone it will be easy.

You’ll know if your the lightest, darkest or somewhere in between that range, but the undertone is the key component to this. Refer to their color charts and images of models in their foundations and see what best suits you.

You’re not going to know how close your guess is until you test it out on your skin, so before you go buying any foundations and wasting money, go to a store that has testers that you can try it out on brands you love.


How to Test Your Shade

Again, lighting is most important. You should be doing this in a well lit area, not in a dingy bathroom or bedroom. natural light works great too if you need to go near a window or outside.

Whenever I am working with a new client I look at their face, neck and chest. Then I take the foundation shade I think they are, swipe a small sample on the side of their face, under the chin and neck and massage it in with your finger or a foundation brush. Aside from the difference in texture and coverage you really shouldn’t see much of it, the color should blend in so it’s an exact match or so close you can barely see the difference.


troubleshooting

Oxidation in foundations refers to a chemical reaction that occurs when the foundation comes into contact with air, the oils on your skin, or other substances. This reaction can cause the foundation to change color or darken over time, often resulting in a shade that looks different from when it was initially applied.

When a foundation oxidizes, it may turn slightly darker, change in undertone, or develop a different hue altogether. For example, a foundation that initially appears to match your skin tone may start to look orange, pink, or grayish as it oxidizes. Foundations with certain types of pigments, oils, iron oxides or certain types of titanium dioxide oxidize more easily.

If it’s not an Oxidation issue and it looks orange; you most likely have cool undertones and are using a foundation with warm undertones resulting in an orange hue. Switch to a cool or neutral foundation shade.

If it looks pink; Similar to the issue with orange-toned foundation, using a foundation with the wrong undertone for your skin can result in a pinkish hue. For example, if you have warm or neutral undertones and you're using a foundation with cool undertones, it would appear pink on your skin.



If you’re really lost and need some assistance, stop into your local ULTA and ask to be matched up, their Artists are eagerly waiting to help you!